top of page
Search

The Blazer

  • Cheong Gin Hao
  • Mar 31, 2016
  • 4 min read

The blazer is an quintessential part of every gentleman's wardrobe. Its origins is derived mostly from two origins, the Lady Margaret Boat Club and the Royal Navy's frigate H.M.S Blazer. Today , we will be exploring the blazer in detail. It's two origins, the defining features and how to style them today.

The Origins

Lady Margaret Boat Club

( Red Flannel Blazers of the Lady Margaret Boat Club)

In 1825, twelve members of the Saint John College founded the Lady Margaret Boat Club. Making it the first college boat club in Cambridge. The term blazer , according to the Lady Margaret Boat Club , refers to specifically the bright red flannel club jacket that the members would wear as a symbol of the club. An English reader once wrote a heated comment to the London Daily News "In your article of to-day‥you speak of ‘a striped red and black blazer’, ‘the blazer’, also of ‘the pale toned’ ones.‥ A blazer is the red flannel boating jacket worn by the Lady Margaret Boat Club. When I was at Cambridge it meant that and nothing else.It seems from your article that a blazer now means any colored flannel jacket, be it for cricket, tennis, boating or seaside wear " ( 22 August 1889). Well, the reader did definately made a strong point across !

H.M.S Blazer

( Canadian Naval Officers in their Reefer Jackets. Notice the similarity to Double Breasted Navy Blazer of Today )

Another popular origin of the Blazer is one that I am personally more leaning towards. It is that the Blazer comes from the Royal Navy Frigate , H.M.S Blazer. the story is that the sailors at sea were relatively poorly dressed most of the time , when news of Queen Victoria's pending arrival reached the Captain, he decided to dress his crew up in a double breasted structured blazer which is inspired by the Reefer Jacket , with Brass Royal Navy buttons and matching trousers. The Queeen was so impressed by the captain, she ordered the Navy to adopt the same dress for the entire navy.

(Prince William in an iconic double breasted navy blazer with matching trousers , just like how it used to be )

Defining Features Of A Blazer

What makes a Blazer, a blazer?

1. It is a stand alone jacket , not meant to be worn with matching trousers

2. It comes in either a solid color, muted semi solid color or big bold stripes.

3. The colors of a blazer is usually going to be Navy Blue , Muted Red or Bottle Green

4.The striped blazers , also known as Regatta Blazers are going to be brightly colored and the colors represents the club/ mensgroup / association.

5. The Blazer will have contrasting buttons such as Brass, Gold, Silver, Mother of Pearl , Corozzo , Polished Horn , enamel and even metals like steel with the wearer's monogram/ family crest printed or carved . Which is rarely seen on sports jackets and never seen on a suit

6. The proper fit of a blazer should be like a suit. Allowing a close fit to the body without stress points and just enough room to fit the dress shirt and maximum of 1 lightweight sweater/ cardigan/ sweater vest.

7. Most blazers today can be categorized into two cuts

i) American Cut : Unstructured with little to no shape or waist supression and sports a natural shoulder line with a single vent

ii) British Cut: More structured than the American Cut blazer, almost feels like a suit jacket when it is worn. Modest amount of waist supression is quite common, with emphasis on the shoulders and chest . Sports a structured shoulder line and double vents.

American Blazer vs British Blazer

( The two main cuts of Blazers. American Cut on the left , British Cut on the right )

8. On occasion, a crest representing the club/ school/ association may be found sown on the blazer at the left chest pocket . The crest may also symbolise the wearer's position in the club ( in the case of the rowing club blazer)

How to style a Blazer

A blazer is a wardrobe staple. It can be combined with a myrid of different shirts, ties , trousers etc.

Look 1:

Suit Equivilent: For this look , you will be best served with a double breasted navy blazer. Pair it with a herringbone french cuffed dress shirt, medium gray trousers and a pair of black semi brogued oxfords with a royal blue neck tie. This look is the perfect look to switch out a suit for the weekdays. Don't forget a crisp linen pocket square in a presidential fold along with some tasteful accessories. This look is great as a normal office day alternative, however, it is Not a replacement for a suit. If the dress code calls for a suit, WEAR A SUIT. If not, why not break out this look for a sharp yet relaxed look.

Look 2 :

Business Casual : For this look , a single or double breasted blazer will work well. Wear a light blue dress shirt and gray wool trousers. If your office environment allows it, go with a white pair of trousers instead. This will keep you looking professional and stylish. As for the shoes, a pair of dark brown wingtip oxford will be perfect for the look

Look 3:

Traveling Partner: Back in the 1950 to 1960s , people dress up when they are travelling . Replicate this look by wearing a comfortable washed shirt with a soft shouldered double breasted blazer , slim tan khakis or seersucker trousers and suede loafers. This look is classic and very comfortable. Not a fan of the loafer? This look is also easily paired with a pair of double monkstraps and low cut socks.

There we have it , the Blazer in detail. I hope that through this article has deepened your understanding of this iconic menswear piece and you can now know how to rock the blazer in style.

Until next time, Stay Dapper !

Cheong Gin Hao

Style Consultant , Newcastle Tailors Singapore


 
 
 

Comments


Featured Posts
Check back soon
Once posts are published, you’ll see them here.
Recent Posts
Archive
Search By Tags
Follow Us
  • Facebook Basic Square
  • Twitter Basic Square
  • Google+ Basic Square
bottom of page